The other day, I got to thinking about myth. Not the myth of legend or metaphor, but the myth of falsehood masquerading as truth. I was writing about stories I’d heard while on safari, some of which were true and some of which seemed only to border that territory. As I wrote, I started to contemplate the nature of truth and fiction, what makes a good story. I then realized that some of my own travel stories involve things I was told in earnest, that is, believed by the teller (or so I thought), but that turned out not to be true.
This phenomenon of how falsehoods become common truths fascinates me. If essential falsehoods can be presented (and believed) as real, what in the world can we ever really know? This question is the stuff of sages and philosophers – and perhaps, politicians. But when I consider truth, fiction, fact and falsehood, I think what we often take to be the bright line between them is more like a dance, with Truth and Falsehood trading the lead in syncopated time.
Three stories: about a building, a President and a puff adder. And even though I think I unmasked these falsehood to find the truth at last, it may just be that the leads change roles again, and the lie becomes truth once more!
The One about the Boma
While meeting with the Aspen Institute’s Global Leadership Network (AGLN) in South Africa’s sunny wine country, our group convened one day in a boma. The boma was a short walk from the main conference center, with unobscured views of the Hottentot Holland Mountains. The boma is a round, thatch-roofed structure with twig walls that let the breeze blow through, and AGLN staff explained that we’d use it as an adjunct to traditional meeting spaces inside. As I approached the boma, it looked to me like an African version of a Hogan or teepee – and I assumed it was, similarly, a structure indigenous to Africa used on the savannas.
When I arrived a week later at the game lodge for safari, there too was a boma, only this one was without the roof.
Still round and made of tall and thin standing twigs, it had a fire pit at its center. Two nights later, back from game drive, we were escorted to the boma. Dark had descended, so the brilliance of the fire dancing in its pit dazzled as it lit up the pretty table and buffet nearby. Our truck of passengers, all fast friends after bonding over the terrifying and disgusting sight of four lions eating a rotted buffalo carcass, began toasting our endurance.
To our delight, our ranger sat down and set in regaling us with stories of game drive legend. In the midst of his telling, someone asked what a boma was. I looked to our ranger, waiting for the explanation I’d already sorted out for myself. Instead, he said that boma was in fact an acronym: B-O-M-A, which stood for British Officers’ Mess Area. How silly I felt, thinking the BOMA was a type of sacred vessel for millennia of lives in the bush…
When I returned stateside and wrote my holiday letter, I briefly described my misimpression, giving the correct origin of the word and spelling it BOMA. But at the last moment, something made me look it up. In my quick internet search, I discovered that a boma is indeed a boma (not a BOMA), and is in fact a structure indigenous to Africa. And, what’s more, the fact that boma stands for British Officers’ Mess Area (or Management Agency, or any number of other MA words) is a common tale told to tourists.
As I re-wrote my holiday missive, I wondered, what was the intent of this seemingly inconsequential deception? And was our ranger in on the long tradition of goofing tourists or had he believed it himself? And how could the hoax possibly still persist if I was able to unmask it so easily with Google?
The One about Mandela
The AGLN group took time out for a field trip to Robben Island; the place Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years incarcerated for activism against apartheid.
When the bus disgorged us at the entry gate, razor wire still topped the high fence, and I felt a chill despite the day’s hot sun. Our guide explained the different cell blocks, telling us that Mandela was kept in a building with single cells instead of the group ones that held 40 men. We filed down a narrow corridor that reminded me of my elementary school because of the aqua green paint. On either side of the hall, barred windows looked into small cells. Soon our group bunched up in a knot: Mandela’s cell was just ahead.
It was an eerie feeling, looking at the modest rectangle where Mandela spent so many years. A hushed silence fell, broken only by the intermittent camera click. As my turn came to look through the bars, I noticed a small black and white photo of the cell as it had been when Mandela lived in it.
In the photo, the bed was against the wall at one end, with a small table beside it. On the table was an 8×10 photo of, I could just make out, a naked woman. From behind me, I heard a man explain to another that Mandela had kept a nude picture of his wife, Winnie, in his cell. The notion struck me. It seemed at odds with how I thought about Mandela, how I’d always heard him portrayed. But then I thought that he’d been a young man when he was sent there, and perhaps the picture gave him solace of a sort – who was I to judge?
Days later I traveled to Johannesburg and decided to tour Constitution Hill, the old Johannesburg Fort with its medieval prisons used to incarcerate South Africans who resisted apartheid. Mandela was among the many held there, and a room was dedicated to his story. Our tour group wasn’t given much time to peruse the exhibit, so I did a quick pass, stopping at what most caught my eye. In a Plexiglas case toward the back, there was a copy of the photograph I’d seen in the picture of Mandela’s Robben Island cell. I leaned in for a closer look. A beautiful young black woman running naked down a beach, looked at ease and completely unaware of the photographer. And then I noticed next to it a copy of a typewritten letter.
The letter was to Mandela from a friend who’d been imprisoned with him on
Robben Island. The letter told of the day Mandela had seen the photo in a National Geographic Magazine while on the Island, and how he’d been struck by how perfectly the woman epitomized freedom. For his birthday, his friends cut the picture out of the magazine and made a frame of wood shards they found around the prison. This was the picture that Mandela kept by his bedside.
I wondered how the story of a naked Winnie got started and, even more, how it still persisted after all this time, especially when the National Geographic picture makes so much more sense.
The One about the Puff Adder
While at the game lodge, I walked from my room to the main hall for breakfast. We could walk unaccompanied during the day, whereas after dinner, an armed guard escorted us to our rooms – protecting us from visiting wildlife. But even in the morning sun, I was still a bit wary as I walked the distance to the hall. I also followed the advice of closed-toed shoes whenever on game drives and in the evenings at dinner. Even though my feet were hot, I bore it so I wouldn’t have to worry about my footing. But this morning, I’d changed into my sandals, the cool air on my hot toes delicious.
As I approached the hall entrance, I felt relief: no encounters. No crazy baboons, no monkeys jumping overhead, no Heavens-knows-what lurking in the shadows. Just as that thought entered my head, I caught sight of something at my feet. I stopped just in time to see a small and beautifully patterned snake cross my path. I stood still and watched as it slithered by and into the garden, winding itself around a small yucca.
At first, I was taken aback. But the snake’s petit size made me think it must be like a garter – cute and harmless. After a few moments gazing at its gorgeous markings, I strode inside. The staff greeted me, and I told them in reply that I’d just seen a snake. With wide eyes, they asked where. I said right outside, in the garden – did they want to see? I turned around and headed out the door, standing by the yucca and pointing. The four staff members crouched in the doorway, leaning to look where I pointed. One of them gasped, that’s a puff adder. Another said, a baby. I said I’d figured a baby was harmless. Another staffer confirmed it; a baby wasn’t much of a worry. With that, we all went back inside.
Later on game drive, I mentioned my find to the ranger. He gave me a look. He told me that the baby snakes are, in fact, much more worrisome than the adults because the young ones haven’t learned how much venom it takes to stun, wound or kill. So, they just keep pumping it out till they’re spent. I shivered at the news. He also informed me that the puff adder is one of the worst: the venom works by eating the prey’s skin. Your skin rots away until you’re left without your hide. It’s a horrible death, he told me. Needless to say, I thought.
I wondered if the camp staffer had just been trying to make me feel at ease, or if he really believed the babies are less dangerous. In any case, I treaded much more gingerly after that, and started to think consulting several authorities might be in order before deciding what exactly to believe.
After all, it is each of us who decides just what is and what is not true, isn’t it?
Photography by Rebecca Reynolds, 2011.